Why Do They Do It?
BY SUE B. HUFFMAN, CCP

Nobody but nobody receives more requests, pleas, and cajolery to contribute to “good causes” than star chefs. Perhaps it’s the generosity of our profession, but the culinary industry does seem to promote and nurture more than its share of worthy organizations and charities.

Yet the stellar stars of chefdom are quick to respond when asked to participate in an event promoting The Culinary Trust. Almost all of the celebrities who participate in these benefits at the IACP Annual Conference are television stars as well as culinary icons. So why this particular charity when there are so many? We set out to find out.

First and foremost there was Julia: Our generous, funny, talented Julia Child, CCP, who was such a longtime enthusiastic supporter of IACP and its philanthropic arm. When we asked Stephanie Hersh, CCP, Julia’s devoted assistant, why the fervor for this group, she answered without hesitation:

“Julia felt keenly it is important to promote the educational aspect of the culinary industry for the credibility and respect of our profession. It’s not just dum-dum cooking.” Additionally, said Hersh, “She loved the fact that IACP membership goes far beyond the chef—there’s the culinary anthropologist, the food writer, the photographer—a point acknowledged by the Trust in awarding scholarships and grants across the board in the culinary profession.”

As anybody who ever attended one of her culinary concerts knows, Julia loved every minute of them. “No matter who she was with—Jacques, Graham, Martin, Emeril—she always had a good time and loved playing off the audience,” Hersh said. “She felt the culinary profession was just one big happy family.”

And certainly no IACP conference or Culinary Trust benefit is ever complete without Jacques Pépin, CCP. “There are very few events I haven’t done over the years,” Pépin said. Initially he conducted seminars during the conference itself but began appearing in the Foundation/Trust Culinary Concert series from its beginning: Chicago in ’97, Phoenix in ’99, San Diego in ’02, Montréal in ’03, and Baltimore last year all have featured Jacques, who, like Julia, needs no last name.

“It’s rewarding to play a part in raising money for scholarships to help young people get into the business,” Pépin said. “And it is extra special because of the personal connection; I’ve been a member of IACP since the beginning.”

Graham Kerr said his commitment to IACP began at the New Orleans conference in 1993. “I remember showing up in my Scottish kilt—I didn’t have a dinner jacket with me—when my book won the Julia Child Cookbook Award.” He immediately became active in the Foundation (now The Trust). “It was important to do what I could to personally contribute, to go the extra mile.”

“It’s heartening to see the huge amounts of money flowing into The Culinary Trust and to have been a part of it,” Kerr continued. “It’s been such a pleasure to meet some of the recipients of our scholarships who have gone on to do very well.”

Kerr also reminisced about partnering with Child. “Although we were polar opposites in food philosophy—like tick and tock—she allowed me to express myself and embraced what I did. I remember her saying once, ‘I have no idea why you do what you do. At least I still have my butter friends’.” The two appeared together at conferences in San Antonio in ’95 and Portland in ’98.

What attracts Martin Yan to the cause is the sense of camaraderie in our profession. “It’s important that we work and collaborate to help each other; we all have the same interest and same passion about cooking. “Some of us have had more opportunities that others may not have had at that moment. Thus we should put back into the organization and give to the rest of our members so they may have the same opportunities,” he added.

“All her life that’s what Julia did. She gave back not only to culinary professionals, but also to the whole community. That’s the same mission we all share—a mission which not only helps others but also helps us each to grow as a person.”

Yan lent his talent and enthusiasm to Foundation events at the conferences in Chicago, Portland, Providence in ’00, Minneapolis in ’01, and San Diego in ’02.

More recently joining this group of dedicated professionals is Emeril Lagasse, the King of Bam. The Food Network star “kicked things up a notch” at three consecutive Culinary Concerts beginning with the Providence conference. Other television personalities who have added cachet to The Trust’s charitable events are Wolfgang Puck, Bobby Flay, Lidia Bastianich, Jacques Torres, Tyler Florence, and the Too Hot Tamales, Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger.

Other well-known IACP members and cookbook authors who have gained prominence through television and radio programs have joined the lists of star volunteers: Anne Willan, CCP, Barbara Pool Fenzl, CCP, Lynne Rossetto Kasper, Bruce Aidells, Steve Raichlen, and Shirley Corriher, CCP.

The Culinary Trust often tries to theme its benefits to the conference’s city. Montréal’s fundraiser featured “Cabaret, Casino et Cuisine” starring three French guys: Pépin, Torres, and Jean-Pierre Curtat.

Often the task of recruiting volunteers for Culinary Concerts falls to The Culinary Trust Chair Robyn Lee. “When these celebrities say yes, it’s because they truly believe in the cause—scholarships, cookbook preservation, research grants—they are supporting,” Lee said. “They also enjoy the company of their peers. And the fact that IACP and The Culinary Trust put together such great programs, which attract leaders in our industry, is a big impetus. All in all it’s a package that’s difficult to say no to.”

Preparations are already under way for a fundraising barbecue at April’s conference in Dallas. And no doubt calls are going out to the busy/busier/busiest star chefs asking them to participate. And we can be sure that without doubt the busiest of them will say “Yes, I want to do everything I can to help The Culinary Trust help others in our profession.”

And if they can do it, can’t we all? Whether it’s donating something for the auction or bidding enthusiastically for one of the items or contributing money to the Richard Sax Memorial Fund or to scholarships, we can all do more. Let’s honor Julia by promoting the educational aspect of the culinary industry. After all, it’s not just dum-dum cooking!

SUE B. HUFFMAN, CCP, former IACP president, was a founder of television’s Food Network and food editor of Ladies’ Home Journal, among other things. Journal She freelances some and travels a lot.

This article originally appeared in the IACP Food Forum Quarterly (First Quarter 2005).